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Josie and Ellamae’s Abel Tasman (NZ) 5 day Trek – September 2020

Aotearoa (New Zealand) has 10 “great walks“, one of which is called The Abel Tasman Track. The Abel Tasman area is located on the north end of the South Island of New Zealand. The area is named after the explorer Abel Tasman, who was the first European to set eyes on New Zealand in December 1642. Along that journey, aboard the Zeehaen and the Heemskerk, he had many other “first sighted” areas for the Europeans. You can read about him here.

Earlier on in the year, Ellamae and I received the invite from her best friends, Joy and Carina and their mom Chana, to join them on the Abel Tasman walk that September. I thought, “what an awesome opportunity to have a girls backpacking trip”! We invited Nina as well, but she opted out. Along with the three other girls, another local friend, Rowena, and her son came along for the adventure. So in total it would be 7 of us, all hopping on the ferry to get from Wellington to Picton, renting 2 cars and then driving to Marahau to start our journey. The whole excursion took a fair bit of planning. Once the rough timeline had been established, we had to reserve the huts through the DOC website. When booking the huts you had to make sure that the hut you would be staying overnight before the required low-tide crossing section was available and timed with optimal timing to cross that section. Once that was established, we could book the ferry, a hotel had to booked for the first night, the water taxi for the return trip back to Marahau, and reserve the car rentals.

Prepping for the actually hike, wasn’t took extensive. All but one hut had potable water. We did need to pack our stove kits though. No tents required, since we would be staying in the huts. Rain gear was a must along with assorted layer options, since it would be spring time with varying temperatures and moist conditions. We kept our food choices to easy to cook/ add hot water options for Ellamae along with my personal challenge of doing the whole hike on my home made Pemmican, a few meat sticks, dehydrated bone broth, and freeze dried coffee with butter each morning. Sounds kind of of crazy, but it worked out great! We packed a minimal amount of change of clothes, but most importantly the layers. Sleeping bags, bathing suits, and toiletries, water filter just in case, headlamps, a book, stove, fuel and something to eat and drink out of was about the extent of what we packed. For water we both used water bladders in which we filled up at each hut. As for fitness training, I just stuck to my usual routine of HIIT classes, swimming, beach walks, a few longer local hikes. Ellamae joined Joy, Carina and Chana on a few of their longer hikes and continues with her CrossFit. Otherwise not much extra training for her either.

The walk itself was about 60 kilometers total (37.28 Miles) . We added a little more by taking some scenic tours to places like the Cleopatra’s Pool and other small day hikes around the huts that we stayed at. Most of the walk is along the coast of the Tasman Bay. There are some sections that go a bit inland and up and down some hills, so its not completely as flat as one might expect. You can look at the elevation guide here. The sightseeing was spectacular. Wild animal sightings, check, cold ocean dips, check, fresh cold spring water shower, check, meeting cool people along the way, check, cozy evenings by a fire and in a “bunk”, check, and an overall hell of a good time, check check. If you ever get the chance to do the Abel Tasman Walk, I highly recommend it.

Our itinerary was roughly of that listed below. You can find the “track guide” here.

First a ferry ride from Wellington to Picton:

Then a car ride from Picton to Marahau where we stayed overnight in a dorm style room at Marahau Beach Camp:

Day 1, Marahau > Anchorage, 12.4km: Stayed at the Anchorage Hut.

Day 2, Anchorage > Bark Bay, 12.1km: Stayed at the Bark Bay Hut. 40 min side trip along the way to Cleopatra’s Pool.

Cleopatra’s Pool:

the rest of day 2….

Day 3, Bark Bay > Awaroa, 11.4km: Stayed in the Awaroa Hut.

Day 4, Awaroa > Whariwharangi, 13km: Stayed in the Whariwhrangi Hut. Low tide only crossing for Awaroa Inlet.

Chana was suffering from really bad blisters at this point, so instead of continuing on to the last hut and then back tracking to this water taxi pick up location, she arranged to have the water taxi take her a day early as we were walking by Totaranui. I promised her I would take care of her girls.

Rowena doing “the floss” for our happy arrival dance.

Day 5, Whariwharangi >Totaranui, 9.8km, then a water Taxi from there back to Marahau.

Joy still had spring in her step as she hopped over the water on the last leg.

Me and my last chunk of pemmican at the final mark of the trail.

For the details on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track see DOC’s PDF map: click here

There’s nothing like a fresh fruit blended into soft serve after a 5 days of hiking!

I’m hoping I found all the photos I wanted to post for this epic journey. The other challenge is making sure I caption them correctly…. It’s been so long! Below are some videos.

Cleopatra’s Pool

Awaroa Hut

The low tide crossing at Awaroa Inlet.

Whariwharangi Hut, the last hut.

New Zealand during Covid : March 2020 – July 2020

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New Zealand locked down her borders. No flights allowed to come in. The whole island itself was in full lockdown from the rest of the world and each county (Land District) was to remain closed to others. March 23rd we were picking apples at the local apple orchard and later that day we were notified that we were going into level 3 and that by the 25th we would be in “LEVEL 4 Lockdown”. Only “essential workers” were allowed out and about and only 1 designated family member was allowed at the local grocery stores. The streets were barren, the noise of the surrounding areas that normally occupied people vanished, the water was still even when it was windy. Mandatory lockdown wherever you happened to be when notice hit. No school except to get the required materials. Zoom classes would start at some point when the teachers could get things together. No water sports allowed due to the possible need for coast guard. Mountain Biking can only be done if you were riding to your MTB spot (no driving to any exercise location). Walking outside was allowed but you had to walk 2 meters away from other people.

As an essential worker in the NICU at Wellington Hospital, we rushed to get prepped for the worst, with all the PPE and how we would divide the unit if a baby got covid, how to attend deliveries with a parent who tests positive for covid, etc. We had to limit the number of staff in the breakroom at one time. We also had to change into our scrubs at work so that people didn’t see us outside of work as hospital staff. There was definite panic stirring around everyone. The trains weren’t running, so I had to start driving to work as well. We were allowed to carpool, but few were comfortable with doing that for the first few weeks.

New Zealand’s infection numbers were climbing quickly as everyone checked the latest daily stats. For the most part, everyone followed the Prime Minister, Jacinda’s guidelines. Most people listened in on the daily updated she gave on the news. Her voice became well known and impregnated the minds of most. I still can hear her voice in my head as clearly as if she was giving one of her speeches today. Thankfully the covid related death tolls climbed slowly and even stopped within 6 ish weeks of lockdown. We transitioned to level 3 lockdown April 27th, which allowed the kids of essential workers to resume in person school. The number of kids in each class was small and the work was minimal, but it allowed some rhythm to return to ours and their lives. Businesses had already been allowed to open up during level 4 that were deemed “essential”, so not only was I working, but Christian had some work as well. Nina’s school, being a large high school had to remain on zoom until level 2 was instated. Level 3 only lasted a few weeks and then the real freedom came with level 2 on May 11th.

When in level 2, the trains were back in service, all the shops were back on normal business hours, the gyms were open with the 2 meter boxes and swim lanes were kept to 2 people pre lane limitations, the outdoor activities resumed in full force, the schools were back in full capacity. Work was still on guard for impending doom, but overall much more relaxed. The limitation of gatherings was increased to 100 people and important events such as funerals and weddings started to come to life.

By June 1st New Zealand moved to Level 1. Everyone within the country could move around freely. Huge concerts were back in the mix as the gathering limitation was lifted. Families and loved ones trying to get back into New Zealand could with residency and 14 days quarantine that was really expensive. Eventually there was a lottery system to get your quarantine hotel spot, which ended up being bought by scalpers and sold for even more money to those already struggling people trying to get reunited with their families. This was hard to watch. We had the freedom to roam within the country without fear of covid while the rest of the world was still knee deep in it.

This was all fine and dandy for those in New Zealand, but was it really? Yes, we had a lot of freedom for which the majority were grateful for, but families were still being kept apart. This included ours, but in the opposite way. Ellamae had been with us during the initial lockdown and couldn’t go see her biological dad. Well, I guess she could, but then she couldn’t come back to New Zealand. Many people had families outside of New Zealand who they couldn’t go see because getting back into NZ was so hard and expensive. As for us, we couldn’t leave without risking losing everything, our home which was our boat and all the belonging aboard her. As non-residents, we could leave but wouldn’t have been let back in. We could sail away, but what country would let us in??? So much uncertainty.

With all of that being said, our visas we automatically extended under my essential work visa. School was included with this. We committed to stay for the long haul at this point. We were in a “safe” place with lovely people that we began to make connections with, reliable work and schools that were in person and at full capacity. And the silver lining of it all??? We got to explore New Zealand (Aotearoa) without all the tourist!

There were a few weeks in August that we had 4 cases in Auckland, so Auckland had to to go back into level 3 and the rest of the country into level 2. This was because of a few quarantine cases that slipped out, but that was resolved quickly and back to level 1 it was.

Here are some photos and videos during that time: March 2020 through the end of July 2020. Enjoy!

Immediate days prior to COVID …

The view over Paekakariki looking towards Kapiti Island

Dear Darling Deb from SV Coastal Drifter

Isla and Chloe Practicing the donning and doffing of PPE for Covid patients.

Then COVID came and it was all about Keeping everybody entertained….

I snuck in a few harbour swims before getting told not to… lol 😕

Easter 2020 : Chalk art for all the people walking/riding along the pathway to keep the spirits up.

Group class at work deemed essential for the “Complex Neonatal Nursing Course”! Note, we’re not masked.

I celebrated my birthday with hikes, coffee with friends, off -roading with friends and dinner with friends.

Elli and Taj playing with the fresh water eels.

Still finding those Kiwi Guardian posts!

Dedication to the Rainbow Warrior greenpeace boat.

Above and below: lots of outdoor adventures including campfires, bike rides, hikes and more.

The swing at the start of the Paekakariki to Plimmerton coastal trek.

Ellamae’s class shortly after everyone went back to school.

Lots of skate park time. They were closed off for ~ 4 weeks during level 4 lockdown.

HIGH-TEA with the kids and Trudy and Elli.

July’s Winter School Holiday road trip up the North Island from Wellington to Matauri Bay in the Bay of Islands (Northland Aotearoa). The kids (minus Nina who stayed back with her friend) and I got a head start on the road trip while Christian had to work a few days. He drove up a few days later in the car to meet us.

Stopping along the Taranaki coast.

Waitomo Caves – Glow Worms (click link) Definitely worth a visit in my opinion.

Silver Fern along the Pohuehue Scenic Reserve – Warkworth.

Matauri Bay – Northland Bay of Islands

New literal form for the term of “going out in the bush”!

And southbound again, back to Wellington. First stopover at the Coastal Drifters – Deb and Phil at Marsden Cove.

Trying to capture Taj looking at the camera.

Stanmore Bay stop over – Orewa

Stop over in Raglan for a surf! Not quite Raglan’s epic surf conditions, but fun nonetheless.

Bridal Veil Falls Waikato

We met up with our boat friends (SV Blue Zulu) that we met in Panama for a surf and camp adventure in Raglan!

Kai Iwi – Mowhanau Beach. We wanted to stop here because we read about the shell fossils you can find in the rock and mud along the cliffs in one of Taj’s school books.

New Zealand is all about the flying fox.

Shortly after our return to Wellington from the winter break, Christian and I celebrated out 10th anniversary by doing the Escarpment Track along the Paekakariki coastline. Definitely a top 10 hike.

We’ll leave this at that for now…

More adventures to be had while “stuck” in New Zealand during Covid times.

New Zealand: July 2019-January 2020

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The second half of 2019 went on and seemed to do so quite quickly. We still went on our adventures, but it started to become just 3 of us, Christian, Taj and myself. Nina found her friends and she was at the age that she wanted to stay home. And Ellamae was back in the USA with her Papa. The term “Windy Welly” started to make its name very apparent in our area. Most days had at least 18kt blows, and if it was calm it was so only until mid morning. We continued to venture about, but the cold wind was already started to wear on us, especially living on the water in the winter and spring. With the camper “Sharkie” however, we still found warmer ways to get out and see New Zealand.

Most of our cold and dreary days between school hours were spent either at the library or at the huge indoor pool/aquatic center. The days when the weather was nice, we went out in nature. Taj loves his animals and his birdwatching from the hides. We also spent many hours at the skatepark.

… and plenty of Taj’s new sport: mountain biking

Our other entertainment: the new dinghy, named “Bunghole” after one of Russel’s (the founder of OCTenders) original videos describing the amazing light weight hard tender. In his video he describes the importance of having a bunghole and having the bung in the bunghole. The kids always referred to the OCtender dinghy as “bunghole” ever since watching that video in 2015. So when we finally got one we named her “Bunghole”.

Our new tender was so much faster and more efficient than our 10ft Montgomery sailing dinghy. With Mana Island about 10km away, we were able to snip out there on a calm day without a hitch. What a beautiful place!

Nina getting all dressed up and pretty. She had her first “Formal” (known in America as “Prom”).

5 more months of Playcentre for Taj before he started into TeRa Waldorf school.

Taj’s “powhiti” (last day) at Playcentre.

A little morning outing just out of Mana Marina and a bit north.

Both “homes” in one picture. (I circled the boat with red.)

For the October school break we took a shorter jaunt to the Wairarapa coast. Nina stayed back with friends as we searched for waves with friends .

From the south coast of the Wairarapa, we wandered up to Castle Point. A long trek in ol’ Sharkie with strong winds and windy roads, but worth it!

Just a few boat life pictures: Taj sewed his own tooth fairy pillow. He also learned to make is own eggs. And as always, just being goofy with dad.

Halloween in New Zealand is trying to become a thing. There were only a few houses that participated. Was fun nonetheless.

In September and November of 2019, I had to fly to the United States for work related things like keeping up my nursing license and continuing education hours. I was very fortunate to see my parents, my “sister from another mister” Rachael, and few other friends.

There were a few weekends in November that I had off, but Christian had to work. So I took Taj on some adventures! This one was just up the coast from Wellington to hit up some mountain bike trails and some hiking trails. This trip we just took the car and car camped. We kept in minimal and had a blast. We stumbled upon the Atene Skyline Track in the Whanganui National Park. What a gem! At the top, we discover the Kiwi Guardian program, which encourages kids to get out in nature by planting these posts along the trail with a password on them. Once you have the password you go online, input the password and a cool wooden medallion is sent to you! Taj was hooked! We also met this group of women along the path that were in a hiking group out of Wellington. They just loved how into the hike Taj was, so they asked to take a photo with them. On the way back we stopped by a sushi place. Done a little differently in New Zealand, they pre-make the sushi and have them displayed to pick and choose. We also stopped by the historic windmill in Foxton.

On our next little November Mom and son adventure, we went to Putangirua Pinnacles (above) and (below) the southern most tip of the North Island called Matakitakiakupe (aka Cape Palliser).

And the same adventure continued to a MTB park, a hike up to an awesome viewpoint and quiet camping near Mt. Holdsworth . This was the Tararua Forest Park of the Wairarapa side. Loving this #camperlife !

Taj at Riven Rock MTB park.

4 way video call for Ellamae’s 12th birthday. We were all in different places; Nina at her friend’s, Christian and Taj at the boat, I was actually in California for work and Ellamae was in Florida with her Papa.

Ellamae (Stateside) and her cousins from her Papa’s side of the family.

Nina’s 17th birthday! We kept it pretty simple with a mermaid birthday cupcake breakfast and dinner at Mama Brown’s with her friend Zoe.

Mama Brown’s Birthday dinner with friend Zoe.

Christmas time in New Zealand, means warmer weather and summer holidays off of school. Although school doesn’t end until closer to Christmas Day itself, we enjoyed plenty of warm weather activities. That being said, we found it hard to get into the Christmas Spirit with it being summer, because we had been accustomed to cold weather Christmas… winter, white, fireplaces, hot cocoa, etc.

Santa comes around on a Kayak here apparently.

Nina signed up for the Coast to Coast endurance race with her school! She was the biker of the girls team. The other two members kayaked or ran. She trained a bit with some longer rides, but nothing that would be like the actual ride. The race is a yearly event that starts with a bike course on the West Coast of the South Island, transitions to a running section up the steep and rugged terrain over Arthur’s Pass, and finishes with a down river race kayak section. Both girl and boy teams did great! The girl’s won first in their devision.

We volunteered driving our 7 seater wagon with Nina’s bike on top. The drive consisted of our first ferry ride over to the South Island, a drive down near the base of Arthur’s Pass, a drive over the Pass and back for the event and lastly down to Christchurch.

While we were in Christchurch we made a special stop to see fellow kid boat cruising friends that we met sailing in Mexico. SV Sangvind had sailed to New Zealand as well and were living on their boat in Christchurch. It had been about 3 years since we had last seen them in Mexico. (Sadly I did not get a photo of Sylvia and myself.)

The bathroom was through a “secret bookshelf door”… Nina was thrilled!

Can I “get fixed” please? Taj waiting for his morning cuppa at Get Fixed Bicycle Cafe.

Glimpse into Christmas morning 2019.

The Pōhutukawa (Christmas Tree) in full bloom.

That’s a wrap for 2019 in New Zealand for “A Family Afloat”. I’m sure I’m missing so much, but this gives a good insight to what we were up to. The next post we’ll be covering the first half of 2020. You’ll get to see more on the South Island when Mom Katie and Brother Phill come to visit, bringing Ellamae back with them. Also expect more adventures in Sharkie, and what it was like during the start of COVID in New Zealand.

Cleopatra’s Pool:

the rest of day 2….

There’s nothing like a fresh fruit blended into soft serve after a 5 days of hiking!

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Immediate days prior to COVID …

Then COVID came and it was all about Keeping everybody entertained….

Easter 2020 : Chalk art for all the people walking/riding along the pathway to keep the spirits up.

HIGH-TEA with the kids and Trudy and Elli.

Stopping along the Taranaki coast.

Waitomo Caves – Glow Worms (click link) Definitely worth a visit in my opinion.

Matauri Bay – Northland Bay of Islands

And southbound again, back to Wellington. First stopover at the Coastal Drifters – Deb and Phil at Marsden Cove.

Stanmore Bay stop over – Orewa

Stop over in Raglan for a surf! Not quite Raglan’s epic surf conditions, but fun nonetheless.

Bridal Veil Falls Waikato

We met up with our boat friends (SV Blue Zulu) that we met in Panama for a surf and camp adventure in Raglan!

Kai Iwi – Mowhanau Beach. We wanted to stop here because we read about the shell fossils you can find in the rock and mud along the cliffs in one of Taj’s school books.

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